Reviving Khadi in India
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REVIVING KHADI: FROM FREEDOM FABRIC TO FASHION FABRIC
In 1985, designer Devika Bhojwani pioneered the Swadeshi
label of Khadi ensembles. Those were distributed through nearly 5000 Khadi
Emporia. To display Khadi's potential, KVIC organized a fashion show in
Mumbai in 1989. Nearly 85 dazzling garments created by Devika Bhojwani were
presented at the show.
This was the first step towards changing Khadi's earlier image of being
unfashionable. Commenting on the poor state of Khadi, Devika Bhojwani said
that failures in the Khadi sector were a result of red tapism and
bureaucracy prevalent in the Indian system.
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Even though the country had a wide distribution
network, the middlemen, commissions and cuts had gradually weakened the
system. She further said that though the government was taking the
initiative to revive Khadi, nothing much would improve until the
implementation, and the cost per garment etc. were controlled.
In 1990, the Delhi based designer, Ritu Kumar presented her first Khadi
collection, Tree of Life, which helped put Khadi in the fashion circuit.
With increasing interest of the western world in use of handloom and
Khadi, many Indian designers began to use Khadi for their designs. |
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The government also made efforts to promote Khadi. In
September 2000, Vasundhara Raje, Minister for Small Scale Industries,
initiated a movement to revive all the 7,000 KVIC shops in India and make
Khadi more fashionable and affordable. The KVIC Board hired the services of
leading fashion designers to help create a new range and brand of Khadi
wear.
In May 2001, KVIC set up the first air-conditioned shop in New Delhi. The
décor was modern and the clothes were neat and fashionable. The outlet sold
Khadi garments designed by high profile designers. On the opening of this
outlet, well-known fashion designer, Rohit Bal commented, “Khadi is the
Indian alternative for linen. It is as comfortable and now, we've proved
that it is as fashionable”[6] .
In January 2002, a high-profile textile exhibition, featuring Khadi
ensembles designed by prominent Indian designers, was launched in New Delhi
to popularise the traditional hand-spun cotton. The idea of the exhibition
was to promote wholly hand spun, hand woven and hand patterned fabric, as a
unique luxury product.
The exhibition displayed western as well as
traditional Indian attire made from the finest Khadi available in the
country. Besides, nearly 110 varieties of the fabric (from the sheerest to
the coarsest) were showcased. Designer Rakesh Thakore, whose collection was
showcased in the exhibition commented, “If packaged well, Khadi can be sold
internationally.”[7]
The exhibition was sponsored by a Swiss charitable trust, Volkart Foundation[8] in association with the Indian National Trust for Art and
Cultural Heritage (INTACH)[9].
With many designers experimenting with Khadi, the designs are no longer as
simple as they used to be.
A great deal of emphasis was given to the details
of the designs and many new colours were introduced. Eco-friendly vat dyes
were used. In March 2002, Preyasi[10] , the official designer for KVIC, launched
“The Khadi Range Collection-2002.” In the collection, Khadi was used to
create apparel such as, casual shirts, waist coats, skirts, wrap-arounds,
trousers, parallels, and tops for women.
GOVERNMENT SUPPORT TO KHADI
TABLE II - SHARE OF KHADI IN THE TOTAL PRODUCTION AT KVIC
FUTURE OF KHADI
EXHIBIT I - PRODUCT RANGE OF KVIC
ADDITIONAL READINGS & REFERENCES
[6] Sengupta, Hindol , Khadi-Much
More than a Fabric, Indo-Asian -News -Service.
[7] 'Glamour platform for Gandhian cotton,' news.bbc.co.uk , Wednesday, January
30, 2002.
[8] Volkart Foundation, a Swiss charitable trust, is devoted to funding
sustainable development. Marking its 150th anniversary, in February 2001, the
Volkart Foundation pledged US $ 1 million as a cultural and social grant. The
Khadi exhibition which formed a part of this, was meant for the revival of the
old cotton business, Khadi as well as to highlight the non-violence movement.
[9] INTACH is an NGO that seeks to make strategic and timely intervention in
order to conserve and promote India's natural and cultural heritage. INTACH has
a nation-wide network of volunteers, who spread awareness about heritage,
prevent acts likely to degrade their region's cultural and natural wealth and
act positively to preserve and enhance local heritage. INTACH is the nation's
largest NGO working in the field of culture.
[10] Preyasi is a certified designer by the Ministry of Handicrafts and
Textiles - Govt. of India. It claims to be the world's best Wardrobe Management
Company. Since fifteen years, Preyasi has been involved in delivering
designer-wear and consultancy services to clients in over 48 countries. In
2001, it signed up with KVIC as their official designer to design and promote
Khadi garments in the national and international market.
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